LOGICAL ENGINEERING CONCERN PVT.LTD

Background

Logical Engineering Concern Pvt. Ltd formerly registered as Logical Engineering and Designing Institute Pvt. Ltd is private company established in 2017 A.D by engineering professionals under the Company Act rule, 2063 B.S. Though Company is new, the professionals attached with the company are experienced which is the best part of the company.

Currently company works in various Engineering fields outsourcing different technical manpower as temporary basis. But in future, company is expecting to expand its human resources in permanent basis.

Team Composition

Logical Engineering And Designing Institute Pvt. Ltd is run by young and energetic personnel from the various Technical fields as below:

1.    Technical Team: Group of 2 temporary Technical Teams headed by 2 Permanent Engineer (Engineering Licensed) with the firsthand experience in the field of Electrical/ Electronics, Civil, Water Treatment technology, plumbing, Energy,  automobile/ Mechanical.

2.    Engineering students who are temporarily available for providing Private Tuitions in Technical subjects like – Electrical, Plumbing, Math, Science, Automobile/ Mechanical, etc.

3.    1 temporary Admin who is responsible for admin and financial management.

Scope of work:

Logical Engineering And Designing Institute Pvt. Ltd have work access on below fields:

1.    Complete Civil works, Electromechanical and Electrical works- CC Camera installment , Solar Pump works, water treatment, etc.

2.    Aluminum, Steel, Prefab, Cement board, False ceiling, Metal work

3.    Electronics, telecommunication and Website development – Programming.

4.    Retrofitting works.

5.    WASH projects.

Long Term Goal:

 Logical Engineering And Designing Institute Pvt. Ltd aims for Customer satisfaction and to expand its engineering expertise and knowledge in Community Level, Private Institution, Private companies, organizations and household level for Quality standard service.

Other Goal: 

Logical Engineering And Designing Institute Pvt. Ltd will be consulting and developing different infrastructures  at different Social fields like – schools/colleges/communities/ organizations/ firms/ agencies/ household  inside or outside of Kathmandu valley.

Logical Engineering And Designing Institute Pvt. Ltd have open space  for collaborating with different organization and Engineering institutions, Research forums and individuals who are undergoing or willing to explore their expertise on Engineering and Technical fields. Any Engineering fields relevant to scope of work could use this project as a Social value for Community and Research Practical based academic profiles for their studies.

Company has the vision to consult or train Technical knowledge seekers and make their life easier in any form of technical aspects.

Work Structure

Logical Engineering And Designing Institute Pvt. Ltd will perform the activities in following way:

1.    Identifying the work or as per work’s demand, performing Assessment.

2.    Sending proposal and Estimate Quotations.

3.    Based on the feasibility and Need Based Study, allocate respective manpower.

4.    After project installation, perform Monitoring & Evaluation Report.

5.    Impact Assessment.

6.    Provides Repairs and Maintenance Services as per contract and agreement with the party.

7.    Research and Development ( if necessary)

                                                                                                                                                           

WORK STATUS TILL NOW:

COMPLETED GOVERNMENT PROJECTS:

1. PROVINCE NO 3 PROJECT: CLEAN ENVIRONMENT AND CONSTRUCTION WORK IN SCHOOL

Earthwork – Brick sole and Interlock block pavement work, Drain management, Classroom PCC and plaster work, Toilet construction work at Shree Mitra Basic School, Chabel, Kathmandu.

2. PROVINCE NO 3 PROJECT: CLEAN ENVIRONMENT AND CONSTRUCTION WORK IN SCHOOL

Filter work and water lifting project at Navin Gram Shikshya Mandir  Madhyamik Vidhyalaya ,Nanglevar 07, Kathmandu

3.CEMENT BOARD AND ALUMINIUM WORK IN SCHOOL

Complete Toilet structure design and work done at one of the government school in Sunakothi, Lalitpur.

COMPLETED PRIVATE WORKS:

GYPSUM BOARD AND FALSE CEILING WORK

At The British School, Jhamsikhel.

WATER TANK CELANING

At The British School sub contracted through Splash Nepal.

SOFTWARE DEVELOPMENT AND IT

Website development – Sunshinenepal.com ; Domnepal.com ; Hotel prince plaza ; Shivam Plaza; Crown Plaza, Pahilo Paila Nepal ,etc.

WATER MANAGEMENT WORK

Shower work, plumbing work at Restaurants and household level.

CEMENT BOARD, METAL TRUSS WORK

Recently working in Metal truss and cement board work, Aluminum work at one government school ,Sunakothi Lalitpur

WATER LIFTING WORK

Recently working in Water lifting and water supply – Pumping and storage, distribution at Nanglevar, Kathmandu ( Near to Sindupalchowk rural area)

For other details: please visit our face book page:  \ Logical Engineering and Designing Institute

COMPANY REACH :

Mr. Santosh Dahal

Managing Director

Mr. Bishal Katwal

Project Manager

Crankshaft & Camshaft Position sensor

What does a Crankshaft (Camshaft) Position Sensor Do?

I'll start by explaining the specific role that the Crank (and Cam) Sensor play in the Electronic Ignition System of your car or truck. This info applies to whatever make and model you may be driving, so whether it's a Ford, a Chevy, a Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep, a Nissan, a Honda, a Toyota, or whatever, this primer will help.

In a nutshell, the Crankshaft Position Sensor's job is to help: 1) the Ignition System produce Spark and 2) the Fuel System to start injecting gasoline into the cylinders. All this so that the vehicle's engine will start and stay running. More specifically, the CKP Sensor produces a signal that tells the Fuel Injection Computer or the Ignition Control Module the exact position of the cylinder pistons as they come up or go down in the compression cycle. With this information the Fuel Injection Computer or the Ignition Control Module knows the exact time it has to make the Ignition Coil or Ignition Coils spark (not to mention when to start injecting fuel into the cylinders). Lastly, this signal can be either an Analog Voltage Signal of a Digital DC Voltage Signal... but more about this a little later.

The Camshaft Position Sensor is GENERALLY used in all modern Sequentially Fuel Injected engines to fine tune ignition timing and fuel injection timing after the vehicle has started. Although this article concentrates on the basics of Crankshaft Position Sensors, you can apply most of this info to the Camshaft Position Sensors too.

Since the Crankshaft Position Sensor's Signal triggers the Ignition Module (or Fuel Injection Computer) to start switching the Ignition Coil's Primary Current ground path On and Off... I usually refer to the sensor's signal as the Triggering Signal. Since the Crank Sensor (or Cam Sensor) is the one producing this Triggering Signal, I refer to it as theTriggering Device.

The signal that the Ignition Module (or Fuel Injection Computer) sends the Ignition Coil for it to start sparking is the Switching Signal. So, guess what... the Ignition Module (or the Fuel Injection Computer) is therefore the Switching Device.

Now, the Ignition Control Module really doesn't send a physical signal (like the Crank or Cam Sensor does to the Switching Device) to the Ignition Coil(s). Why? Well, because the term ‘Switching Signal’ is just a descriptive name for the turning on and off of the primary current passing thru' the Ignition Coil. And as stated above, this turning on and off only happens after the Ignition Module (or Fuel Injection Computer) receives the Crankshaft Position Sensor's Signal. As you may already know, it's this action that causes the Ignition Coil to start firing Spark.

You don't need to memorize all of these details, but it's very important to understand them. Why? Well because understanding and knowing how one Signal leads to the creation of another type of Signal will help you to diagnose a ton of makes and models. Or when you run across a specific testing step in your auto repair manual or in this site or any other that is not explained in painstaking detail (and you're feeling lost as to the ‘why’ of the test you just were asked to perform), knowing this info will help you see the ‘light’.

CAR MAINTAINANCE TIPS:

CAR MAINTAINANCE TIPS:

WHEELS AND TYRES

ROTATE YOUR TYRES!

Every 5,000 miles or 8,000km, rotate your tyres. 

CLEAN BRAKE DUST OFF REGULARLY

Brake dust contains all sorts of nasty stuff. If you leave it too long, the combination of road grime, moisture and heat from your brakes will bake it on to your wheels. Brake dust normally clings to wheels with static electricity so a damp sponge and clean cold water is the best way to get it off.

CHECK YOUR TYRE PRESSURES

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy, handling and comfort. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to.

CHECK YOUR TREAD DEPTH

Bald, slick tyres might be good for motor racing but they're no good on the road. Most tyres come with tread wear bars built into them now - find one, examine it and if your tread is too low, replace your tyres. Four new tyres might seem expensive but they're cheaper than a fine or an accident. 

CHECK YOUR BELTS

At the front of your engine there will be a series of rubber drive belts that loop around various pulleys, driving everything from the alternator to the a/c compressor. Rubber perishes, more so in extreme conditions like those found in an operating engine bay. Get your timing belt and accessory drive belt checked every 25,000 miles, preferably replacing it every 50,000 miles. See the Fuel and Engine bible for information on interference engines and why checking your timing belts is a necessity, not a luxury.

FUEL ECONOMY

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy very noticeably. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to.

CHECKING YOUR OIL LEVEL

This is something everyone can do - it's quick and easy and it'll tell you if your engine needs oil. If the oil is too high or too low, it can cause trouble for your engine. To check the oil, park on level ground and wait until the engine has cooled down after driving, then locate the dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean, then push it all the way back in until the top of it is seated properly in the dip tube again. Wait a moment then pull it out again. Check the level of the oil. If it's between the high and low marks, you're fine. (If it's too low, add a little.) The high and low marks can be denoted by two dots, an "H" and "L" or a shaded area on the dipstick. 

CHECKING YOUR COOLANT LEVEL

Again, something everyone can do. The coolant is the other thing your engine cannot go without. Every engine is different but if you check your handbook you should find where the coolant reservoir is. It will normally be bolted to one side of the engine bay or the other, and be a white semi-transparent bottle. Wait until your engine is cool and take a look at it - the outside should have 'low' and 'high' markings on it and the level of coolant inside should be between the two.

Do not take the radiator cap off to check coolant levels. If the coolant system is still hot then it is still under pressure and the pressure release will burn you. 

ELECTRICAL

DISCONNECTING AND RECONNECTING YOUR BATTERY

If you're going to do any work on your car involving the electrical system, disconnect the battery first. To do this, loosen the connector for the negative/ground terminal first, and wiggle the terminal cap off. Use a wire-tie or similar to tie the cable back out of the way. If you need to take the battery out, you can now take off the positive connector.
Why negative then positive? If you disconnect the positive side of the battery first, the negative side is still connected to the entire car. If you drop a tool and it lands on the positive battery terminal and touches anything else on the car, you'll have an electrical short. By disconnecting the negative first, you're cutting off the return path for the current. Now, if a tool drops on to either of the battery terminals, it doesn't matter if it touches part of the chassis or not - there's no continuous path for the electrical current.
Reconnecting your battery. Connect the positive terminal first, and the negative second - the reverse of removal, and for the same reasons. When you slip the negative connector on, there will be a spark as it gets close and makes contact with the negative battery terminal. Don't be afraid of this - it's nothing to worry about. Make sure the terminal caps are done up nice and tight.

CHECK YOUR BATTERY TERMINALS

Most modern cars run on a 12 volt negative ground electrical system. If your battery terminals or contacts aren't clean, you're making it more difficult for the current to pass around the electrical system. Remove the terminal caps as described above and clean each contact post with a wire brush to get a nice clean metal contact surface. Do the same to the terminal caps, then reattach them as described above.

LIGHTS

ONE INDICATOR OR BLINKER IS FLASHING FASTER THAN THE OTHER

When you indicate one way and the blinker flashes quicker than when you indicate the other way, it means one of the bulbs has blown. An auto parts store will be able to tell you what sort of bulb you need to replace it with and your manual should show you how to get at the indicator bulbs - they're different on every car.

DON'T TOUCH THE GLASS WHEN CHANGING HEADLIGHT BULBS

Most headlight bulbs now are filled with halogen and have special coatings on the outside of the glass. If you pick the bulb up by the glass with your fingers, you will leave trace amounts of oil and grease on the glass. When the bulb is used, that area of the glass will get hotter than the rest and it will eventually cause the bulb to crack. When changing headlight bulbs, only hold the metal bulb holder at the base, or make sure you're wearing rubber surgical / mechanic's gloves (clean ones) if you're touching the glass.

If there is any queries or issues regarding Maruti Suzuki Service operation, Technical difficulties , please share on my site...I along with our team will try to give the solutions.

You can post your knowledge and experiences regarding the subject concern only.

* Use the Maruti Suzuki Geniune Parts and sustain your vehicle's Life time.

Thank you!

INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

CG|Motocorp is the automobile division of Chaudhary Group. Actively involved in the automobile business for the past 30 years, CG|Motocorp started as far back as 1980 and has grown from strength to strength - to be currently positioned as Nepal’s leading automobile distributor. It is only one sole distributor of Suzuki Motors Corporation (Japan), Maruti Suzuki India Ltd. and TVS Motor Company India Ltd for Nepal.

Today, CG|MOTOCORP is the Nepal's leading distributor in automobiles sales. 

Suzuki range of power-packed new generation cars include Alto, K10, Wagon R, Estilo, Astar,  Ritz, Swift, Dzire, Celerio, Ciaz and Grand Vitara. Products range from economy to small vehicles to utility vehicles and mid-range cars. 

In the present scenario of Nepali context, we can see the lifestyle of Nepalese has drastically changed. Huge mass of people can be seen using different models of Car section of different companies . More the advance technology used, more the demand we see. So this point ‘Technology” is much more challenging in Sales . To overcome it, we could not be apart from “Service” . Once the sales is complete, we are standby here to face the Customer.

AUTHORIZE DEALER NETWORKS (SERVICE CENTERS):

A.       EASTERN REGION

1.       KAPURI AUTOMOBILES

(MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Station, Birtamode)

Anarmani – 4, Birtamode, Jhapa

2.       KOSHI AUTO PVT. LTD.

(MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Station, Biratnagar)

Airport Mode, Biratnagar, Morang

3.       GAJURMUKHI TRADE AND SERVICE LINK

(MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Station, Dharan)

Gaganlal Marg, Bhotepul, Dharan, Sunsari

4.       GAUTAM AUTO WORKS

(MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Station, Birgunj)

Trimurti Chowk – 14, Shreepur, Birgunj, Parsa

5.       AN ENGINEERING PVT. LTD.

(MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Station, Hetauda)

Nandasthan Marg, Hetauda, Makwanpur

B.      CENTRAL REGION

1.       KAPURI BROTHERS ENTERPRISES

(MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Center, Sitapaila)

Sitapaila, Kathmandu

2.       MEGA AUTOBOBILES SERVICES PVT. LTD.

(MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Center, Maharajgunj)

Maharajgunj, Kathmandu

3.       AUTO AVE PVT. LTD.

(MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Station, Mitrapark)

Mitrapark, Kathmandu

4.       DHANA SHREE AUTO CARE

(MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Station, Jadibuti)

Jadibuti, Kathmandu

C.      WESTERN REGION

1.       UDR AUTO ENGINEERING

(MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Station, Pokhara)

Nayabazar, Pokhara, Kaski

2.       AUTO SERVICE MART

(MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Station, Butwal)

Kalikanagar, Butwal – 12, Rupandehi

3.       NAVIN AUTO CARE

(MARUTI AUTHORIZED Service Station, Narayangarh)

Kamalnagar – 4, Saheed Chowk, Narayangarh, Chitwan

4.       RATNALAXMI INTERNATIONAL (P.) LTD.

(MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Station, Nepalgunj)

Manikapur, Nepalgunj, Banke

5.       KISAN AUTOMOTIVES

(MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Station, Dhangadi)

Dhangadi – 2, Kailali

6.       UNITED SAI MOTORS

   (MARUTI SUZUKI Authorized Service Station, Bhairawaha)

           Bhairawaha, Rupandehi.

AFTER SALES – SERVICE :

A motor vehicle service is a series of maintenance procedures carried out at a set time interval or after the vehicle has travelled a certain distance. The service intervals are specified by the vehicle manufacturer in a service schedule and some modern cars display the due date for the next service electronically on the instrument panel.

The completed services are usually recorded in a service book which is rubber stamped by the service centre upon completion of each service. A complete service history usually adds to the resale value of a vehicle.

Maintenance tasks commonly carried out during a motor vehicle service include:

·         Change the engine oil

·         Replace the oil filter

·         Replace the air filter

·         Replace the fuel filter

·         Replace the spark plugs

·         Tune the engine

·         Check level and refill brake fluid

·         Check level and refill power steering fluid

·         Check level and refill Automatic Transmission Fluid

·         Grease and lubricate components

·         Inspect and replace the timing belt if needed

·         Check condition of the tires

Mechanical parts that may cause the car to cease transmission or prove unsafe for the road are also noted and advised upon.

DASH / INSTRUMENT WARNING LIGHTS

	THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. Every new car now comes with OBD-II - On Board Diagnostics 2. This is a fault-registering system connected to sensors all over the car, engine, fuel and emissions system. When the check engine light comes on, it can mean many things. There are something like 4,000 unique OBD2 codes that can be stored. Handheld OBD2 diagnostic tools can be plugged in to the OBD2 port which is normally under the dash on the driver's side. These tools can read out the fault code and/or reset the system to contain no codes. Codes are split into two categories - historical/inactive, and active. The historical codes are lists of things that have been detected in the past but are no longer an issue, whilst the active codes are things that are a problem right now. Codes are subdivided into B-codes (body), C-codes (chassis) and the biggest list of all - P-codes (powertrain). P0440 OBD-II code. This is the most common code you'll find and it's the first thing you should check. P0440 is the code for Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction which covers a multitude of sins. The one thing it covers that you can check is your gas cap (petrol cap). Most new cars have a pressurised fuel system and vapour recovery loop. If you've filled up with petrol and not twisted the gas cap until it clicks, you've not sealed the fuel system. It won't pressurise and the OBD2 system will log a P0440 code. In fact, on a lot of cars, that code is so common they'll actually have some way of telling you to check the gas cap. In the Honda Element, for example, if a P0440 code is logged, the dash scrolls "CHECK GAS CAP" across the odometer display. So if you get a check engine light, check the gas cap first and see if the light goes off. Note : even if the light does go off, the code will likely still be stored in the OBD system and will show up next time it is checked. It wasn't the gas cap. If tightening the gas cap didn't do it, you'll need to find someone with an OBD2 diagnostics tool or reader. Some garages will charge you just for plugging the device inand reading the code. If they do, walk away. They're ripping you off. Better to find a garage or mechanic that will read the code and actually give you a diagnosis rather than just making you pay to find out a number. Smaller garages and local mechanics will normally do this for you for a small fee, and being independent, the diagnosis won't be predicated on you buying some expensive parts from a corporate chain. If you're a do-it-yourself type used to working from shop manuals, then a lot of places that will give you the diagnostic code for free. In America specifically, the Schuck's chain do free diagnostics checks (Checker, Kragen, Murray's, Advance) as well as AutoZone. Drop in - don't phone up and ask. A lot of times if you phone up they'll tell you it's $40. If you just turn up, more often than not they'll do it for nothing. In the UK I'm not sure who does - if you know, drop me a line. The alternative, if you're into maintaining your own vehicles, is to buy a reader and do it yourself.
	THE SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT / MAINT REQD LIGHT. This might indicate "Service", "Service Engine" or "Maint Reqd". It's an indicator that you're getting close to a scheduled maintenance interval. On some cars it's as simple as counting miles before it comes on, whilst on others it maps engine temperatures, oil temperatures, air temperatures and other indicators of probable stress to tell you when it might be time for new oil or a service. In most cars this can be overridden or reset by you, the owner. Your handbook will tell you if this is the case. If you take your car for a service, the garage should reset it for you. Typically this light will come on when you start your car, and then turn off again as part of the self-check. If it stays on for 10 seconds then turns off, it normally means you're within 500 miles of needing a service. If it flashes for 10 seconds, it normally means you've exceeded a recommended service interval.
	THE ELECTRICAL FAULT LIGHT. This warning light is different in every car but normally it looks like a picture of a battery, similar to the picture on the left here. You'll see it come on and go off when you start your engine as part of the car's self-test, but if this light comes on and stays on, it means the electrical charging system is no longer working properly. Think of it like a cellphone battery. If the cellphone is plugged into the charger, you can use it indefinitely, but when you disconnect it from the charger, there's a limited amount of time before your battery runs out. It's exactly the same in your car, only bigger. Every car has an alternator - the charger - and a 12v battery used to supply power to the electrical system. If the alternator becomes faulty or the drive belt to it snaps, then it will not be able to do its job. The longer you drive, the more your car will use up the remaining juice in the battery and eventually the engine will die. This almost always requires a new or refurbished alternator.
	BRAKE WARNING LIGHT 1 Most cars nowadays have a brake warning light on the dash. Its purpose is to alert you that something is wrong in the braking system somewhere. If it comes on, check your owner's manual to find out its meaning. The brake warning light doesn't have a standard meaning; it could be used for multiple purposes. For example, the same light may be used to show that the hand brake (parking brake for the Americans amongst you) is on. If that's the case and you're driving, you ought to have noticed the smell of burning brake dust by now. The light can also indicate that the fluid in the master cylinder is low. Each manufacturer has a different use and standard for this light. Which is nice. Because it would be such a drag if the same indicator meant the same thing in every vehicle.
	BRAKE WARNING LIGHT 2 If you've got an ABS-equipped car, you also have a second light - the ABS light. If it comes on, get it seen to as soon as possible. It means the ABS computer has diagnosed that something is amiss in the system. It could be something as simple as dirt in one of the sensors, or something as costly as an entire ABS unit replacement. Either way, if that light is on, then you, my friend, have got 1970's brakes. It's important to note that this light normally comes on when you start the car and then switches off a few seconds later. If it blinks, throbs, flashes or in any other way draws your attention to itself, then take note. It's not doing that just to please itself. Compared to a steady light, a blinking ABS light normally indicates something more serious. In some cases it could be as bad as "you have no brakes at all."
	COOLANT WARNING LIGHT This is normally the coolant level warning light. If this comes on it means that the level of coolant in your radiator is low and needs topping up. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT! The coolant system is pressurised and it could easily release pressure and spray you with boiling coolant. Do it when the engine is cold. Top up the system with either a pre-mixed coolant bought from a shop, or with distilled water. Don't use tap water - the mineral deposits in it boil out in the cooling system and calcium gets depositted around the inside of the radiator making it less efficient (which will eventually cause it to fail). It's always best to use pre-mixed coolant, or to mix your own rather than using neat water. The coolant mixture behaves as an antifreeze in winter as well as a corrosion-inhibitor to stop your engine rusting from the inside out.
	OIL WARNING LIGHT Typically this light will come on if your oil pressure is too low. Low oil pressure is serious and if you continue to drive with this light on, eventually your engine will die. Low oil pressure can be caused by a failed oil pump, a blocked oil filter or strainer in the sump, or by low oil levels - for example if your engine is burning oil. Either way, you need to get it fixed, and fast. Low oil pressure is A Bad Thing and your engine won't thank you for leaving this problem untreated.